Its narrow, hilly streets are now a favourite destination for trendy types to enjoy craft ale, organic salads and single origin coffee, in between perusing design stores and contemporary art galleries. When the MTR opened a stop here in 2015, the area’s sleepy, laid back vibe underwent a rapid wake-up. Originally a British military camp, it became home to a stream of Chinese immigrants at the end of the 19th century. On the western end of Hong Kong Island, sits one of Hong Kong’s oldest districts, Sai Ying Pun.
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The Wanch, on Jaffe Road, is a local institution, for free live music most nights, and it makes a good alternative to post-Sevens shenanigans in Lan Kwai Fong.
Head round the corner afterwards to enjoy a cocktail at cosy 60s-themed bar Tai Lung Fung. The Pak Tai Temple, built in 1863, is still widely used as a place of Taoist worship, and it’s a beautiful place to take a rest and contemplate. If you’re a tech aficionado, take a wander through the labyrinthine Wan Chai Computer Centre, which is packed with the latest gadgets at competitive prices. If you’ve a day to spare, be sure to take in the views with a walk along the Bowen Road Fitness Trail, (or if you’re feeling lazy, opt for a ride in the observation lift inside the Hopewell Centre). But in truth, Wan Chai is simply archetypal Hong Kong: gritty and upmarket in equal measure, with a diverse crowd of tourists and locals of all nationalities rubbing shoulders. Only one MTR stop along from Hong Kong Stadium, Wan Chai has garnered a somewhat sordid reputation for some travellers, thanks to its portrayal in the 1960 romantic drama The World of Suzie Wong, and the neon-lit Lockhart Road, which is regarded as the place to head for a seedier sort of night out.